Despo rate

Today was my last day of three with Deirdre and Martin King on their wee trip to El Chorro for a bit of bolt clipping and the weather again wasn't making life easy.  We made our way into Poema Cave to climb the friendlier graded climbs hoping the overhanging nature of the buttress would have kept them dry.

threatening clouds over El Chorro

Unfortunately, this was not to be as we got showered from the seeping tuffas and made a quick return to the car to chance a trip to Buena Sombre, Desplomilandia (Despo).  This is a high quality crag with lots of three star routes with a grade range from F5+ to F8a+.  After a couple of goes on the F5+ we moved onto Sin mantenimiento F6a, which gave us the opportunity to look at techniques for overhaning rock. Looking specifically at efficient movement, reading moves and using centre of gravity, both Martin and Deirdre came away with a greater understanding and enjoyment of overhanging climbing and a good workout before their trip back to the UK.

Martin on Escombros

With such a short trip for Deirdre and Martin I was desperate to get the most out of their time in the region and although the weather has limited the choices on offer the variety and accessibility of the cragging has enabled us to spend the weekend covering slab climbing at Valle de Abdalajis, Via Ferrata and abseiling on the Camino del Rey and some vertical and overhanging climbing at Despo.  

When coaching and instructing clients I aim to challenge them and to use these challenges to help them improve technically and psychologically and therefore enjoy and accept that if it's hard it's a great way to learn.  Having had to deal with the challenge of the weather over the past few days was not how I wanted to start guiding in Spain but it has been an invaluable experience.  

With a few days off now I have a bit of time to get settled at the Olive Branch and to challenge myself on the rock.   

Return of the Kings

So the move to Spain has been made easy with both good and bad fortune.  Good fortune - Having shadowed Silvi Fitzpatrick on the Camino del Rey for a day I got straight into some work for the weekend.  Working with Deirdre and Martin King on a Rock Climbing course in El Chorro.

Deirdre and Martin on Camino del Rey

We spent a half day at Valle de Abdalajis just getting some mileage in before the weekends rain came in (bad fortune).  As their only here for the weekend the weather has not played fair so we took advantage of the other attractions in the area by spending yesterday on the Camino del Rey (King's walkway), a makeshift via ferrata through a gorge with a wee scramble/climb to get out at the other end.  

Martin on-ish Camino del Rey

Considering the damp weather we managed to get a full day out on the walkway including a wee scramble and an abseil down one of the climbs.  Having spent the last few years climbing in El Chorro I have looked at  the area in a different manner on this trip.  Looking for the best learning opportunities for clients and putting together interesting and challenging days out that will help them develop and get the most out of what the area has to offer has helped me get to know the place in a different light and appreciate all the opportunities that are on offer.

Holding on for dear life.  Camino del Rey

Today we will be taking advantage of one of the caves in the area with some more amenable climbing which, fingers crossed, should have remained dry.  With two appropriate climbs we will have an opportunity to look at top roping, simulated leading, leading.... and enjoy the beautiful lakeside location.

More bad fortune - my tent is soaking.

A dogs life

The highlands have definitely been showing off over the last few days.  Blue skies, sunshine, clear nights, morning temperature inversions...  it's been a beautiful place to live and play.

Berry enjoying Glen Nevis

After a weekend spent catching up with friends in Glasgow, I felt the need for some exercise and healthier living.  I've managed a couple of days bouldering on Heather Hat, repeating some problems and trying a new font 7b which I'm still not quite strong enough for.  I love the movement on it though with some crafty heel hooking, deep lock-offs, egyptians, full on body tension moves and finishes with a big dollop of fear.  If i get it sent it'll be one my favourite boulder problems on this stunning bit of rock.

Berry spotting me on Heather Hat

The rough rock in Glen Nevis isn't always the most friendly on the skin so to not waste the good weather I spent the rest of the day playing on a slackline with Loch Eil in the background until the sun set just beyond the Loch.

Berry spotting me on the slackline

It was back to a bit of work today with the students from Lochaber college.  The aim of the day was to look at technical rope work, so we went up and down Ledge route looking at different belaying techniques, confidence roping and where and when to use the rope.

Descending Ledge route with Lochaber College Students

As I'm about to head off to Spain in a week it is a real privilege to spend the last few days experiencing what makes this part of the world so special.  With snow forecast over the weekend on the higher summits we will again see the area transform and again offer new opportunity to enjoy playing in these wild places.

End of Frustration

At the start of the year I set myself a couple of climbing goals related to grades I wanted to climb.  After a long trip to El Chorro clipping bolts, I felt in a good position to push things further this year and started my training with a solid foundation.
But, as with all plans, there are always a few hurdles along the way that slow or stop progress.  Although, I've had a much busier year due to venturing into the world of freelancing as well as continuing with a full time job, it is the various little tweaks and injuries that have proven the biggest hurdles to over come and the most frustrating.  This has led me to climb very little this year with next to no routes/bouldering throughout the summer and a significant affect on performance.

Frustration over.  Lonely skyhook far, far away.

With a few weeks of regular training and a healed broken hand I finally managed to get out on some dry rock on Sunday with Kev and Scott.  We headed out to a beautiful slab out by Lochailort with the intention of trying Frustration E5,6a and also to look at getting the 2nd ascent of Kev's route Rebellion E6,6b.

After a couple of top-ropes on frustration I felt happy to get on the sharp end.  The route is protected by a solitary sky-hook about a third of the way up the climb.  Having selected not to tie it down it basically became an aesthetically pleasing piece of kit and would not stop a ground fall from higher up the route.

I felt very comfortable on the route and therefore wasn't too bothered about the gear.  The route has a lovely flow to it and I felt that my moves matched the this flow and the boldness became much less significant.  It's been a long time since I've found this feeling of fun and freedom on the rock and has definitely ended a feeling of frustration I have become far too aware of.

Scott toproping Frustration

I managed to send Frustration and had a top rope on  Rebellion.  Kev was able to talk me through the route move by move.  Quite impressive since it has been several months since he climbed it.  The crux is the very last move and proved a sticking point for me.  I decided to leave it for another day as I didn't fancy the potential fall onto gear at half height.  I am constantly amazes at Kev's ability and technique when it comes to these routes.  It's easy to see why companies are willing to sponsor him.  He is a very accomplished athlete!

Kev looking for a new route

I have another couple of weeks before I head out to El Chorro for my annual escape to sunshine and I'm starting to feel more and more positive of where I am now in regards to my climbing.  Although, I am not yet as strong as I was I am enjoying playing on the rock a lot more and I'm starting to feel less rigid and am making strides towards climbing the way I like to climb.
The goals might not be realised this year but the playful nature of climbing and the feeling I seek from it have re-established themselves.  You often hear it said, "the best climber is the one having the most fun", which make me pretty damn good again!!

Native schooling

I spent the last week working for Outward Bound with the Glasgow Gaelic school.  It was  a great opportunity to get to grips with the pronunciation of local place names and their meanings.  A beautiful start to the week made for stunning views down Loch Eil (shimmering loch) to Ben Nevis (poison mountain) and the Mammores.

Canoeing on Loch Eil

 The course included an overnight expedition which we spent up by Stob Ban (white peak) and made an evening ascent of Sgurr an lubhair (peak of the Yew) hoping to see the northern lights.  Unfortunately no northern lights but we did manage to catch a very striking sunset.

Stob Ban sunset

With only a couple of weeks left in Scotland for the year it's these views and settings that make this a very special place.  All those days spent cursing the midges, rain, ticks, more rain and even more midges are easily forgotten when you see just how beautiful the place can be.

Stob Ban

Students on Sgurr an lubhair

Canyons & Crags

Inchree Canyon

After a week working at my full time job at Outward Bound I got a call from Vertical Descents to guide a couple of canyon trips at Inchree.  Having recently passed the Canyon Guide level 1 assessment, it was a great opportunity to put it to good use.  

Canyoning is probably my favourite activity to undertake with groups, as it turns the outdoors into a giant playground where you just have a great laugh and scare yourself a wee bit with some of the bigger jumps around. Inchree is a fantastic canyon with very little rope work which means very little waiting around and a great flow to the day.  There are some excellent slides, jumps, zip wire and it all culminates with an 8.5m jump into a deep pool.  Fantastic fun!!

For more info on canyon trips contact me via email.

Black Jack F6b, pic Dorota Bankowska

Sunday was a bit more chilled with a trip out to Black Crag by Lochailort.  This crag was bolted a few years ago by Tom Bollard and and is a nice wee day out with grades from F5+ - F7b+.  The crag is situated by the sea so discretion/common sense is advised regarding the bolts and lower offs.

The setting far exceeds the climbing in my opinion but the setting is so stunning on a beautiful day that it makes the trip worthwhile.  You can extend your stay with a night in the Fisherman's bothy a little further along the coast.  Up there with one of my favourite places that I've ever stayed.

The day was spent with Karen, Sarah, Dot and Berry.  Beautiful setting, beautiful weather, beautiful company and a wee bit of bolt clipping thrown in.  A great finish to the week.

Berry chilling in the sun

johannurbano's photostream

johannurbano's photostream on Flickr.