Saturday, 15 December 2012

Overheating & Overhanging

So with four days of work done I felt that my fingertips and skin had recovered enough to go have another play on Ace Ventura with my motivational guru Andy Tapper (the most psyched climber I've ever met).  Over-enthusiasm had us heading to Ace on one of the hottest days of the week which made the tiny crimps, smears and edges feel ridiculously hard and sore. But we persevered to improve the sequences and sort out where and when to clip.
We thought we'd have to skip a few clips which started to look like a bit of a monster fall if the crux moves didn't go.  Luckily, just a wee bit of balance and some extended draws keeps the falls to just a normal screamer.
Although it was too hot to go for the lead we did get some strategy sorted, even to the point to see what time it's in the shade (4pm for those who are keen).  With the sun off it we had a couple more goes and the difference was immense.  Future trips will be on cold days or after 4pm.

Via de Rudolf

With destroyed fingers and a lack of skin we decided the best option would be to try one of the extension coming out poema cave.  Andy had done the right hand extension to Veiejo Amigo on his previous trip so we started our onslaught on the left hand extension - Via de Rudolf.  To the first chain it's a nice 7a+ and then leads on through the huge overhang on some amazing hanging tuffas, to give a fantastic 7c+/8a endurance route.
It's a true burl fest and far from what suits me.  

Andy finding a kneebar rest
The exposure as you're climbing up through the roof adds to the excitement and fun of the route as your swinging off big pockets, tuffa pinches and seeking out any rest to give the arms a wee bit of respite.
I don't have the guns for this route at the minute so will focus on Ace over the remainder of the trip  but with such fun climbing it's definitely one to come back to.  In the meantime it'll be great working it with Andy until I get the strength to give it a Redpoint attempt.

exhaustion after getting to the top

I'm now going into eight days of work so will have strong, rested fingers and skin to give Ace a good attempt at the end of it.

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